本文发表在"活力亲子"，经授权由“加州娃行天下”转载发表
我和老公以前已经去过几次非洲，而儿子小Y也算是游走了三十多个国家的老江湖了（非洲国家里他去过摩洛哥毛里求斯和留尼旺）。如今，五岁半的小Y终于算是能读能写有点文化了，所以这次的游记加入了他的日记英文原稿。这一趟，我们决定先去领略一下沙漠风光的纳米比亚。
1
三明治湾
三明治湾的特色是一边是沙漠一边是海洋
开着车从沙丘上冲下来，这是我拍的后面一辆车。为了安全起见都是几辆车同时行动。
Quad Biking 父子俩的速度与激情
大西洋日落
小Y的日记：
30/7/2016
It is my summer holiday. This year my Mum Dad and I went to Namibia in Africa. The first place we visited was Walvis Bay. It is a small and quiet town next to the Atlantic Ocean.
We went on the boat to see the seals and dolphin and pelican. The weather was cold because it was winter. It was a small and white sailing boat. A black seal came on the boat. Everybody was excited when the seal came over and took loads of photos, even me. Later I fed a seal with a little fish. I saw two white and huge Pelicans. One of them is called DoDo. DoDo and the tour guide are friends. The Dolphins were jumping happily in the salty sea.
Then I rode an enormous old tall and fluffy camel. The journey was bumpy. My Mum was scared because of the noise the camel made and the fast speed of the camels. Me and Daddy feel we are expert at riding camels.
I had a very exciting day. I hope tomorrow will be even better!
31/7/2016
It was my 2nd day at Walvis Bay. We had a fun, exciting and busy day.
In the morning Dad and I took the quad biking in the desert. We drove up and down the dunes. Some of the steep slopes were like a water slide.
In the afternoon we got on 4x4 car to Sandwich Harbour. Sandwich Harbour is where the dunes meet the sea. We passed the pink and slim flamingos on our way. We climbed some giant sand dunes. The strong wind blew into our faces. The driver was good at driving and the car was good at going on step dunes and shooting down.
At the end of the day we were all covered in sand
2
纳米比亚红沙漠
纳米比亚红沙漠死亡谷，我的小男神小Y
从Walvis Bay到死亡谷我们是直接飞过去的，只需要不到一个小时，而且可以从空中俯瞰红沙漠的全景。预定的时候我们并不知道是什么样的飞机，后来去了才发现是居然只有我们三个人的私人飞机，而且飞行员带我们去了以后就住在我们的酒店里等我们，过了两天再带我们飞回程，非常安全方便，强烈推荐。

体会一下做私人飞机的豪感

从空中俯瞰大沙漠
我们在这里只住了两个晚上，重头戏当然是去死亡谷，早上5：30就起床，车队6点集体出发。第一站是Due45, 大概有300多米高的沙丘。看到这个沙丘才知道我们在三明治湾看到的沙丘简直就不算什么。
Due45大沙丘
沙丘看起来又高又陡，但因为沙本身的阻力，完全没有可能摔下来，所以其实很安全。我们和小Y一起花了一个多小时爬到顶，当然爬起来还是挺累的。然后最有趣的部分是从上面直接冲下来，不是沿着爬上去的路，而是直接从沙丘侧面冲下来。虽然斜度超过45度，但沙的阻力很大，可以放心大胆的往下冲，大约5分钟就能冲到底！
接下来就是向死亡谷进发了。我们是直接把车开到距离死亡谷一公里左右的停车场，到了停车场以后有两个选择，一个是从低洼处步行一公里多到达死亡谷入口，另外一个是攀爬环绕它的Big Daddy沙丘，沿沙丘可以走到死亡谷的另外一头，然后从沙丘上冲下来。这个Bid Daddy其实比Dune45难爬，如果走这条路的话需要预算大约2小时。小Y和我走了一半，老公爬到了顶。强烈建议走这条路，因为从高处俯瞰死亡谷是完全不一样的感觉，而且反正你走不动了随时可以从沙丘上冲下来。
死亡谷和环绕的Big Daddy沙丘
身处死亡谷中央有种天人合一的感觉
死一般的沉寂，单调到极致的美
小Y的日记：
1/8/2016 -3/8/2016
On August 1st we flew from Walvis Bay to Sesriem by a little and private plane. Our pilot is a woman.
It took us about 50 minutes to get to Sesriem. I saw the massive red desert spread below our plane.
The next day we got up at 5:30. We were waiting for the park gate of Sossusvlei to open when we saw the sunrise.
The first stop was the view point and the tour guide found a white spider.
Then we made our way to Dune 45. It is a mountain of sand. You have to see it to believe how tall it is. We climbed to the top and it was tiring. The most exciting part was definitely the run down.
The last stop was the Sossusvlei. It is a white pan dotted with skeleton of camel thorn trees. Mum and me climbed half way of Big Daddy dune. Dad climbed to the top and we all ran down.
In the evening we saw bird, fox and oxry. We had some food in the sand while we watched the sunset.I had an exciting day.
On the third day the little plane carried us back to Walvis Bay. That is the end of the trip in beautiful Namibia. We are heading south to Cape Town.
正如小Y日记所说，离开死亡谷我们就往南非的开普敦去了，在那里我们去了好望角和非洲五霸。非洲五霸（Big Five Game）分别是指非洲狮、非洲象、非洲水牛、非洲豹和黑犀牛这五种非洲动物。这些动物成为非洲五霸是因为徒手捕捉它们的难度最高。
3
南非开普敦
开普敦我和老公已经是第三次去了，上次去是怀着小Y，这次主要是为了带小Y去。我们一共三个整天，一天桌山，一天好望角和看企鹅，一天沿海公路。桌山每年有两周缆车检修，我们正好碰上，所以就干脆爬上去爬下来。路比较难走，特别是下山。我们带着孩子全程一共用了6小时，2小时上，2个半小时下。住的酒店是The Commodore，前两次去南非我们也是住的那里，位置很好，在Waterfront边上，可以停车。
小Y的日记：
4/8/2016 -7/8/2016
The first thing I saw when we landed in Cape Town was Table Mountain. It is a bit like the BFG's table in Buckingham Palace in the film.
We decided to go to the Table Mountain by cable car but it was closed. We climbed it instead. The road was made of big and small rocks. There are colourful flowers, green trees and big and small waterfalls along the path. The road was difficult but we were as tough as nails. The view was brilliant. We saw more mountains, the harbour and the ocean.
The next day daddy drove us to Cape Point. Cape Point is where Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet each other. We got the cable car up to the top of Cape Point. We saw red and white lighthouse and a white lighthouse. Then we went to Cape of Good Hope and made a wish. I wished there was a mat and we could do driving in the strong wave. We saw some cute, black and white Emperor penguin. We took loads of photos.
The next day daddy drove us along the coast line. The blue ocean and sandy beach all looked amazing under the shinning sun. The white cloud was so near it was a bit like we could touch it.
At the end we went to Signal Hill to have our last look at Table Mountain before we left Cape Town.
爬桌山这天是我们此行最艰苦的一天。因为缆车检修，我们不仅要爬上去而且要爬下来。因为桌山山体本身几乎是垂直的，所以路很不好走，上山不容易下山更加困难。不过父子两个手牵手一路走得很开心，我一个人吊在后面下山的时候几乎要哭出来了！这次徒步算是小Y去年和他爸在法国Chamonix徒步6小时后的又一次壮举。沿途很多人看到小Y都很惊讶，甚至有人后来在别的地方遇到我们还认出了小Y是那天勇敢爬桌山的小不点。当然桌山的风景还是一如既往的绝美。
第二天我们去了好望角，还顺便看了可爱的企鹅。四年前去南非是看企鹅是不收费的，但现在需要买票了。

4
南非马地圭自然保护区
Madikwe Game Reserve 
看动物不是我们此行的主要目的，不过既然去了非洲总还是要去一下。我们这次去的是南非不是特别出名的Madikwe自然保护区，主要原因是那是一个Malaria free的保护区，非常kids friendly。因为有很多保护区的营地是不接受5岁的小孩入住的，而且即使入住也不让孩子参加营地的game drive。但我们在Madikwe住的营地(Tuningi) 接受任何年纪的小孩入住，5岁就可以参加game drive（其实小一点只要孩子坐得住也可以参加）。当地看不到肯尼亚马塞马拉动物迁徙的壮观场面，但该看的动物还是都能看到，算是一个能带小孩子参加的不错的入门级的保护区。这个保护区我们也是直接从约翰内斯堡飞过去的，开车的话大约5小时。
小Y的日记：
7/8/2016 -10/8/2016
The last stop of our trip was Madikwe Safari park.
The name of our lodge was Tuningi Safari lodge. The lodge was quiet and small. It only has 6 rooms. The shower is outdoor. There is a waterhole next to our lodge. We often see animals like giraffes and elephants come to drink water.
We do two game drive per day. One in the morning at 6:30 and one in the afternoon at 3:30. Gavin is our driver. He is good at finding animal's footprints. Sometimes it takes a long time to find animals but we found baboons, blue wild beasts, buffalos, elephants, giraffes, springboks, jackals, kudus, leopards, lions, rhinos, warthogs and zebras. My favourite animal is leopard because it can run fast.
At the end of our trip I jumped in the cold water with some children. It was fun. I enjoyed my stay in Africa. I might come back here. 
我们看见的各种动物，找找有几霸
我们住的这个营地非常亲子，小孩子一到就会发一本Safari Log，里面有很多关于动物的知识，小孩子一边找动物一边看记录。
营地边上有一个water hole, 经常有动物造访：

营地里有专门的儿童活动区，每天还有一个kids club, 专人带着小孩子玩游戏，讲一些野生动物的知识。而且如果大人不想带孩子参加game drive, 小孩也会有专人陪互，包括带出去做短时间的mini game drive。因为营地人少，孩子之间很快就非常熟悉了。和小Y和一个美国四岁多的小女孩从认识到告别才36小时，临走已经好到要互换礼物的程度。后来他又和几个比他大的小孩比谁不怕冷敢往冰冷的游泳池里跳（当地是冬天夜里很冷，所以白天水温也只有几度），结果在英国冷习惯的娃完了胜！
5
一点感想
首先我想说大家不要怕带孩子去非洲，非洲旅行的条件和成熟度其实可能比你想像的要好。对我来说Africa never fails to impress me，每次去都会有一些特别触动我的地方，让我不由自主的审视自己的人生。
另外小Y从小跟我们东奔西跑，到现在感觉他已经完全能跟上我们的节奏了，基本不需要为了他做什么特别的安排。这次旅行在Sossusvlei和Madikwe几乎每天都是早上五点多就要起，晚上也至少要到九点左右才能睡，对小孩子来说其实是挺辛苦的。但他白天都会找时间把差的觉补起来，不管是在酒店里还是在车上飞机上，而且还抽时间写了日记（基本都是利用等飞机坐飞机这种零碎时间）。
娃真的一转眼就会长大，需要你牵着他的手去看世界的时间其实真没几年。
作者介绍 － by 小榛子
张灯，我称她为灯灯，久居伦敦，穷游网带娃旅行版版主，《小脚丫丈量大世界》一书作者。我和灯灯认识多年，两家的孩子也是一起长大的。快六岁的小Y已经踏足五个大洲近40个国家，而且从小就能码字写文章，绝对是神童级旅行家。公众号：活力亲子 (Huoliii)，欢迎大家关注！

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